+ How to Tie a Overhand Knot — Step-by-Step Climbing Knot Guide | BoulderingList

Overhand Knot

beginner

The overhand knot is the simplest knot — a single loop with the working end passed through. Used as a stopper, a backup, and the foundation for more complex knots.

When to Use

The most basic stopper knot — used as a backup, a stopper at the end of a belay device, or as the building block for more complex knots.

The overhand knot is the most basic knot in any rope work tradition. You probably learned it as a child without realising it had a name. It is formed by making a single loop in the rope and passing the working end through that loop. The result is a small bulky knot that prevents the rope from passing through a hole or running through a device.

In climbing, the overhand knot has three main uses. First, as a stopper knot at the end of a rope (preventing the rope from passing through a belay device). Second, as a backup behind a primary knot like a bowline (preventing the bowline from shaking loose). Third, as the building block for more complex knots — the figure-8, the fisherman's, the double overhand, and many others all start with an overhand and add complexity.

For climbing tie-ins, modern instruction prefers the figure-8 follow-through over the bowline-with-overhand-backup. The overhand-on-its-own can also be used as a backup tie-in but is generally less reliable than the figure-8 — overhands can untie themselves under cyclic loading more easily.

How to Tie the Overhand Knot

  1. Step 1

    Form a loop in the rope by crossing the working end over the standing part.

  2. Step 2

    Pass the working end through the loop from underneath.

  3. Step 3

    Pull both ends to tighten the knot. It should sit as a small compact knot.

Tips for Tying It Well

  • Always dress the overhand cleanly — twisted overhands weaken significantly.
  • For backup applications, leave at least 5 cm of tail past the overhand.
  • The double overhand (two wraps instead of one) is more secure and standard for stopper knot use in climbing.

Common Mistakes

  • Using a single overhand as a tie-in stopper. The double overhand is more secure and standard.
  • Tying the overhand too close to the parent knot. Backup knots need at least a few cm of tail to function.

Related Knots

Take it further

Browse the full climbing knots library, or find a climbing gym to practice tying knots in real climbing situations.

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