Climbing Grades
Explained
From V0 to V17, Font 4 to 8B - understand what climbing grades mean, how they compare, and what level you should aim for as you progress.
Quick Reference
What You Will Learn
What Grades Mean (And Do Not Mean)
Climbing grades are attempts to measure difficulty. They give you a rough idea of how hard a problem is relative to others. But here is the crucial thing to understand: grades are subjective and inconsistent.
A V4 at one gym might feel like a V2 at another. Outdoor grades are typically harder than gym grades. A problem that is V5 for a tall climber might feel like V6 for someone shorter. Your strengths and weaknesses affect how hard something feels to you personally.
Grades are useful for finding appropriate problems to try and tracking your general progression. But do not obsess over them - the joy of climbing comes from movement and problem-solving, not chasing numbers.
🌍 Bouldering Grade Systems
V-Scale (Hueco Scale)
The V-Scale, also called the Hueco Scale, was developed in the 1990s by John "Vermin" Sherman at Hueco Tanks, Texas. It is the most widely used bouldering grade system in the United States and increasingly popular worldwide.
- ✓ VB (V-Basic) is the entry level, sometimes called "V-Easy" at gyms
- ✓ V0-V2 are considered beginner grades suitable for first-time climbers
- ✓ V3-V5 represents the intermediate range where most regular climbers plateau
- ✓ V6-V9 is advanced territory requiring dedicated training
- ✓ V10+ is expert level, typically achieved by professionals or dedicated amateurs
- ✓ The current hardest confirmed boulder is V17 (Burden of Dreams by Nalle Hukkataival)
Font Scale (Fontainebleau)
The Font Scale originated in Fontainebleau forest near Paris, one of the world's most famous bouldering destinations. It uses numbers followed by letters (A, B, C) and plus signs to indicate sub-grades.
- ✓ Grades 1-3 are beginner level, equivalent to VB and below
- ✓ The scale uses A, B, C suffixes to subdivide each number grade
- ✓ A "+" after the letter indicates a harder version of that grade (e.g., 6A+)
- ✓ Grade 4 is roughly equivalent to V0, making it a common starting point
- ✓ European outdoor climbing typically uses this system exclusively
- ✓ The Font scale is more granular than the V-scale at higher grades
Gym Grades & Circuit Systems
Most commercial climbing gyms use simplified grading systems, often based on colors rather than numbers. These "circuit" systems make it easier for beginners to find appropriate problems without understanding the technical grading scales.
- ✓ Colors typically progress from easiest (green/yellow) to hardest (black/red)
- ✓ Each gym creates its own color-to-grade mapping
- ✓ Gym grades are often "soft" (easier) compared to outdoor grades
- ✓ Some gyms use tape color with a V-scale number for reference
- ✓ Circuit systems let you warm up by doing all problems of one color
- ✓ Route setters adjust difficulty for their specific climbing population
📋 Grade Conversion Chart
Use this chart to convert between grading systems. Note that conversions are approximate - individual problems may vary.
| V-Scale (USA) | Font (Europe) | YDS (Routes) | |
|---|---|---|---|
| VB | 3 | 5.6-5.8 | Beginner - large holds, easy movements |
| V0 | 4 | 5.9 | Entry level - good holds, simple sequences |
| V1 | 4+ | 5.10a | Learning phase - building technique |
| V2 | 5 | 5.10b/c | Progressing - smaller holds, basic technique required |
| V3 | 5+ | 5.10d | Intermediate entry - real technique starts here |
| V4 | 6A | 5.11a | Intermediate - requires consistent training |
| V5 | 6A+ | 5.11b | Solid intermediate - technique becomes essential |
| V6 | 6B/6B+ | 5.11c/d | Advanced entry - power and technique combine |
| V7 | 6C | 5.12a | Advanced - significant commitment required |
| V8 | 6C+ | 5.12b | Strong climber territory |
| V9 | 7A | 5.12c | Expert level begins |
| V10 | 7A+ | 5.12d | Elite amateur level |
| V11 | 7B | 5.13a | Professional entry level |
| V12 | 7B+ | 5.13b | Professional level |
| V13 | 7C | 5.13c | Elite professional |
| V14 | 7C+ | 5.13d | World class |
| V15 | 8A | 5.14a | Top of world rankings |
| V16 | 8A+ | 5.14b | Cutting edge |
| V17 | 8B | 5.14c | Hardest ever climbed |
🎯 What Grade Should I Start At?
Your starting point depends on your background. Here is a general guide:
Complete beginner
Most gyms have plenty of entry-level problems. Focus on getting comfortable on the wall.
Generally fit/athletic
Your fitness helps, but climbing uses specific muscles. Expect your forearms to get tired quickly.
Rock climbing experience
Your technique transfers, though bouldering power may take time to develop.
Gymnastics/calisthenics
Great base strength, but technique and grip strength need development.
📈 Grade Progression Timeline
Everyone progresses at different rates, but here is a general timeline of what to expect. These are rough estimates for climbers training 2-3 times per week.
First sends
Your first completed problems. Focus on having fun and learning basic movement.
• Use all holds available
• Focus on not over-gripping
• Climb to get comfortable, not to train
Building foundation
Developing basic technique and building climbing-specific strength.
• Start focusing on footwork
• Learn to read problems before climbing
• Climb 2-3x per week for consistent progress
Technique focus
Where real technique starts to matter more than strength.
• Practice drop-knees and flagging
• Work on body positioning and balance
• Consider supplemental training
Dedicated climber
Requiring consistent training and refined technique.
• Focus on weaknesses
• Learn to project (work problems over multiple sessions)
• Consider hangboard training
Advanced climbing
Expert territory requiring dedicated, structured training.
• Work with a coach or training plan
• Rest and recovery become critical
• Mental game is as important as physical
⚖️ Why Grades Vary Between Gyms
Factors That Affect Grading
- • Route setters: Different people have different opinions on difficulty
- • Gym population: Grades may be adjusted for the typical visitor skill level
- • Wall angle: Overhangs suit different body types than slabs
- • Hold types: Some climbers excel on crimps, others on slopers
- • Height: Reach-dependent problems grade differently for different heights
How to Handle Grade Differences
- ✓ Try problems based on feel, not just the grade
- ✓ Warm up on the easier problems at each gym to calibrate
- ✓ Focus on the quality of movement, not the number
- ✓ Use grades as a rough guide, not a measurement of worth
- ✓ Celebrate completing any problem that challenged you
Ready to Start Climbing?
Now you understand the grades, find a gym near you and start working through them. Every V0 you send today brings you closer to your first V3, V5, or beyond.
Frequently Asked Questions
V0 is the entry-level grade on the V-Scale used for bouldering. It represents problems with good holds and straightforward movement that most beginners can attempt on their first day. V0 is roughly equivalent to Font grade 4 in the European system. Most climbing gyms have plenty of V0 problems to help new climbers build confidence.
For someone climbing 2-3 times per week with focused practice, reaching V5 typically takes 1-2 years. However, this varies enormously based on natural ability, training approach, body type, and which styles of climbing suit you. Some progress faster, others slower - the journey is more important than the destination.
Gym grades are often set "soft" (easier than their outdoor equivalents) for several reasons: indoor holds are generally more positive than natural rock, the climbing surface is more predictable, and gyms want to encourage members by showing progression. Expect outdoor climbing to feel 1-3 grades harder than your gym level when you first transition.
The hardest confirmed boulder problem is V17 (Font 9A), with "Burden of Dreams" by Nalle Hukkataival in Finland being the first ascent in 2016. Only a handful of climbers in the world have ever completed a V17. For context, most professional climbers compete in the V10-V14 range.
VB stands for "V-Basic" or "V-Beginner" and represents problems easier than V0. Many gyms use VB as their entry-level grade for true beginners who are still learning basic movement and building comfort on the wall. Some gyms also use terms like "V-Intro" or "V-Easy" for the same purpose.
Track Your Progress
Join our community for training tips, progression advice, and updates on new bouldering gyms in your area
📚 Continue Learning
Getting Started
Complete beginner's guide to climbing
Essential Gear Guide
Equipment recommendations and buying advice
Climbing Techniques
13 essential techniques to climb better
Gym Etiquette
Unwritten rules and social guidelines