+ How to Tie a Double Overhand Stopper Knot — Step-by-Step Climbing Knot Guide | BoulderingList
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Double Overhand Stopper Knot

beginner

The double overhand is an overhand knot with two wraps instead of one. The standard climbing backup knot — secure under cyclic loading.

When to Use

The standard backup knot at the end of a tie-in figure-8 follow-through. Also a stopper at the end of a rappel rope.

The double overhand stopper knot (also called the "Lapp knot" or "stopper knot" in climbing parlance) is the standard backup knot used after a figure-8 follow-through tie-in. Where a single overhand has one wrap, the double overhand has two wraps before the working end is threaded back through. The extra wrap makes the knot significantly more secure under cyclic loading.

This knot is taught alongside the figure-8 follow-through in every climbing belay course. The reason: a figure-8 follow-through alone is acceptable but can theoretically untie itself under cyclic stress (rare but possible). A double overhand stopper knot eliminates that risk. The knot sits against the figure-8 and tightens under any tension, locking the figure-8 in place permanently for the duration of the climb.

The double overhand is also the standard stopper at the ends of rappel ropes — preventing the rope from accidentally passing through a belay device on the way down. This is a basic safety practice that has saved many climbers from rappelling off the ends of their ropes.

How to Tie the Double Overhand Stopper Knot

  1. Step 1

    Take the working end of the rope (the tail past the figure-8 follow-through, or the end of a rope for rappelling).

  2. Step 2

    Wrap the working end around the standing part TWICE, leaving the wraps loose.

  3. Step 3

    Pass the working end back through both wraps, from inside to outside.

  4. Step 4

    Pull the working end and the standing part in opposite directions to seat the knot. It should sit as a small compact knot.

  5. Step 5

    Make sure the knot sits firmly against the parent knot (the figure-8) with at least 5 cm of tail past the stopper.

Tips for Tying It Well

  • Two wraps is the key — a single wrap gives you an ordinary overhand, not a double overhand.
  • Dress the knot cleanly. Twisted wraps weaken the knot.
  • Always leave at least 5 cm of tail past the stopper. Shorter tails can pull through under load.

Common Mistakes

  • Using a single overhand instead of double. The double overhand is the climbing standard for tie-in backup.
  • Tying the stopper too far from the parent knot. The stopper should sit against the figure-8 with no slack between them.

Related Knots

Overhand Knot

beginner

The overhand knot is the simplest knot — a single loop with the working end passed through. Used as a stopper, a backup, and the foundation for more complex knots.

Figure-8 Follow-Through

beginner

The figure-8 follow-through is the climbing tie-in knot used by virtually every climbing gym and instructor in the world. Tied through both tie-in points of the harness.

Figure-8 Knot

beginner

The figure-8 is a simple stopper knot that creates a bulky knot in the rope. It is the foundation for the figure-8 follow-through, the standard climbing tie-in.

Take it further

Browse the full climbing knots library, or find a climbing gym to practice tying knots in real climbing situations.

All Climbing Knots Find a Gym Beginner's Guide

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