+ How to Tie a Figure-8 Knot β€” Step-by-Step Climbing Knot Guide | BoulderingList

Figure-8 Knot

beginner

The figure-8 is a simple stopper knot that creates a bulky knot in the rope. It is the foundation for the figure-8 follow-through, the standard climbing tie-in.

When to Use

A stopper knot tied at the end of a rope to prevent the rope from running through a belay device or pulley.

The figure-8 knot β€” sometimes called the "savoy knot" or "Flemish knot" β€” is one of the most fundamental knots in climbing. On its own it is a stopper knot, useful at the end of a rope to keep the rope from passing through a belay device, descender, or pulley. Its real fame comes as the foundation for the figure-8 follow-through, the climbing tie-in knot used by virtually every gym and instructor in the world.

The shape resembles the number 8: the rope crosses over itself twice, forming two stacked loops. When loaded, the knot is easy to inspect β€” both loops should be cleanly stacked with no twists. After heavy loading the figure-8 can be difficult to untie compared to a bowline, but the easy inspection makes it the safer choice for beginners and the gym-standard tie-in.

Learning the standalone figure-8 first makes learning the figure-8 follow-through (where the rope is threaded back through the knot to attach to the harness) much easier. Most climbing instruction starts here.

How to Tie the Figure-8 Knot

  1. Step 1

    Take the working end of the rope and form a loop, with the working end crossing over the standing part.

  2. Step 2

    Pass the working end behind the standing part.

  3. Step 3

    Pass the working end through the original loop from the front. This creates the figure-8 shape.

  4. Step 4

    Pull both ends to dress the knot so the two loops sit stacked cleanly with no twists.

Tips for Tying It Well

  • Take time to "dress" the knot β€” make sure both loops sit cleanly without twists. A clean figure-8 is much easier to inspect.
  • When tying as a stopper knot at the end of a rope, leave at least 30 cm of tail. Stopper knots can shake loose with too short a tail.
  • Practice tying the figure-8 with one hand. The skill is the foundation for tying in efficiently in cold or stressful conditions.

Common Mistakes

  • Tying it as an overhand instead of a figure-8. The overhand has only one crossover; the figure-8 has two. Both work as stoppers but the figure-8 is easier to untie after loading.
  • Twisting the loops as you tie. A twisted figure-8 is harder to inspect and can be misread for a different knot during a partner check.

Related Knots

Take it further

Browse the full climbing knots library, or find a climbing gym to practice tying knots in real climbing situations.

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