Best Belay Devices 2026
Your belay device is the single most important piece of safety equipment in rope climbing. Whether you prefer the assisted braking of a GriGri or the simplicity of a tubular ATC, choosing the right device for your climbing style keeps you and your partner safe. We have reviewed the top belay devices for every level.
Petzl
Petzl GRIGRI Belay Device (Blue)
Gold-standard assisted-braking device for sport, trad, and top-rope
Black Diamond
BLACK DIAMOND ATC-XP Belay/Rappel Device
Multiple friction modes for controlled belaying and smooth rappels
Petzl
Petzl GRIGRI Belay Device (Red/Orange)
Same trusted GriGri assisted braking in a high-visibility red/orange
Black Diamond
BLACK DIAMOND ATC Pilot
Assisted braking with smooth tubular-style rope control for gym climbing
Black Diamond
BLACK DIAMOND Momentum Harness Package
Complete starter bundle with harness, belay device, carabiner, and chalk bag
Black Diamond
BLACK DIAMOND Big Air XP Belay Package
ATC-XP device bundled with a screwgate carabiner at a package price
NewDoar
NewDoar ATC Belay Device
Budget V-grooved tubular device rated to 25KN for beginners
Black Diamond
BLACK DIAMOND ATC Guide
Guide-mode auto-block for belaying a second on multi-pitch routes
How to Choose a Belay Device
Match the device to your climbing style. Assisted-braking devices add a safety margin for sport climbing. Tubular devices are versatile and lightweight for trad and alpine use.
Key Types
Assisted-Braking (e.g. Petzl GriGri): A cam mechanism locks the rope during a fall, adding a layer of safety beyond the belayer's grip. Ideal for sport climbing and gym use. More expensive but widely considered the safest option.
Tubular (e.g. Black Diamond ATC): Simple, lightweight, and works with single or double ropes. Requires attentive belay technique. Great for trad, multi-pitch, and rappelling.
Guide-Mode (e.g. ATC Guide): A tubular device with an auto-block mode for belaying a second on multi-pitch routes. Versatile choice for trad climbers.
Key Factors
Rope Compatibility: Check the device's rope diameter range matches your rope. Most devices work with 8.5-11mm ropes.
Weight: Ranges from 60g (tubular) to 200g (assisted-braking). Matters more for alpine climbing than gym use.
Ease of Use: Assisted-braking devices are easier for beginners to use safely. Tubular devices require more skill but offer more versatility.
Budget Guide
- Budget ($15-30): Tubular ATC-style devices — reliable and versatile
- Mid-range ($30-80): Assisted-braking devices from reputable brands
- Premium ($80+): Top-tier devices with smooth handling and advanced features
Frequently Asked Questions
For gym climbing and sport climbing, a GriGri is the safer choice thanks to its assisted-braking cam. For trad climbing, multi-pitch, and rappelling, an ATC is more versatile and lighter. Many climbers own both and pick based on the day.
Yes — tubular devices like the ATC are excellent for rappelling. Assisted-braking devices like the GriGri can also rappel but require a specific technique. Always practise rappelling with a backup before using any device in the field.
Most gyms rent or lend belay devices, but owning your own ensures you always have a device you are familiar with. A basic ATC costs under $25 and lasts for years. If you climb regularly, it is worth the investment.
Metal belay devices last many years with proper care. Inspect for deep rope grooves, cracks, or sharp edges regularly. Replace immediately if you see significant wear. Most manufacturers recommend retirement after 10 years regardless of condition.
New to climbing?
Our guides can help you get started and make the right gear choices.
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