+ How to Tie a Square Knot vs Granny Knot β€” Step-by-Step Climbing Knot Guide | BoulderingList

Square Knot vs Granny Knot

beginner

The square knot is a secure binding knot. The granny knot looks similar but is unstable and slips under load. The difference is the order of the two crossings.

When to Use

Comparison page β€” the square knot and granny knot are similar-looking but differ critically in how they hold under load.

The square knot and the granny knot are two of the most commonly confused knots in basic rope work. Both are binding knots formed by tying two simple crossings of two rope ends. The critical difference: in the square knot, the two crossings are MIRROR IMAGES of each other (left-over-right, then right-over-left). In the granny knot, both crossings go the same way (left-over-right, then left-over-right). This tiny difference completely changes the knot's behaviour.

The square knot (also called "reef knot" in sailing tradition) holds securely as a binding knot β€” wrapping a package, tying a bandana, securing a coil of rope, or any application where two ends of rope are tied around something. Under tension it sits stable and secure. The granny knot, by contrast, slips and capsizes under tension. It looks similar but cannot be trusted for any load-bearing application.

Neither knot should be used for joining two ropes in climbing applications. Both are too prone to slipping for any safety-critical use. The double fisherman's knot is the standard for joining ropes; the figure-8 follow-through is the standard for tie-ins. The square-vs-granny distinction matters for camping, sailing, scouting, and basic rope work β€” not for climbing safety.

How to Tie the Square Knot vs Granny Knot

  1. Step 1

    For the SQUARE KNOT: cross the right end over the left end and tuck under (first crossing). Then cross the LEFT end over the right end and tuck under (second crossing β€” opposite direction). Both crossings are mirror images.

  2. Step 2

    For the GRANNY KNOT (do not use this): cross the right end over the left end and tuck under (first crossing). Then again cross the right end over the left and tuck under (second crossing β€” same direction). Both crossings go the same way.

  3. Step 3

    A correctly tied square knot lies flat with both rope ends on the same side. A granny knot has a more twisted appearance with the ends sticking out at angles.

  4. Step 4

    Test by pulling on each end gradually. The square knot stays compact; the granny knot capsizes and slips.

Tips for Tying It Well

  • The mnemonic for tying a square knot: "right over left, left over right." Two crossings, opposite directions.
  • If you forget which is which, look at the dressed knot β€” square sits flat, granny twists.
  • For climbing applications, do NOT use either knot for safety-critical joins. Use the double fisherman's for joining ropes and the figure-8 follow-through for tie-ins.

Common Mistakes

  • Tying a granny knot when you intended a square knot. The mistake is consistent: both crossings the same direction instead of mirrored.
  • Using either knot for climbing safety applications. Neither is acceptable for tie-ins, anchors, or rope joins. Use proper climbing knots.

Related Knots

Take it further

Browse the full climbing knots library, or find a climbing gym to practice tying knots in real climbing situations.

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