+ How to Tie a Clove Hitch β€” Step-by-Step Climbing Knot Guide | BoulderingList

Clove Hitch

beginner

The clove hitch is a fast adjustable hitch that attaches a rope to a carabiner or post. Climbers use it to clip into anchors at belay stations.

When to Use

Attaching a rope to a carabiner or post β€” adjustable, fast to tie, easy to untie. Common at belay stations to clip into anchors.

The clove hitch is one of the most-used knots in technical climbing. It attaches a rope to a carabiner (or any cylindrical object) with two wraps that lock against each other under load. The major advantages: fast to tie one-handed, easy to adjust without untying, easy to untie even after heavy load, and works in either direction of pull.

In climbing, the clove hitch sees its main use at belay stations. The leader arrives at a multi-pitch belay, builds an anchor, and clips into the anchor with a clove hitch on the rope. The clove hitch lets them adjust their position relative to the anchor without untying β€” pull rope through and the position changes; lock it off and they're secure. Belaying the second from above with a clove hitch is also common.

The clove hitch has one weakness: it can roll if the load shifts to a different angle. In climbing applications this is rarely a problem because the load direction is usually consistent. For long-term static loading, a bowline or other secure knot may be preferred.

How to Tie the Clove Hitch

  1. Step 1

    Hold the carabiner with the gate facing you and open.

  2. Step 2

    Make a loop in the rope with the working end behind the standing part.

  3. Step 3

    Make a second loop the same way, in front of the first loop.

  4. Step 4

    Place both loops onto the open carabiner gate, with the second loop in front of the first. The rope should cross itself inside the carabiner.

  5. Step 5

    Close and lock the carabiner gate.

  6. Step 6

    Pull both ends of the rope to dress the hitch. It should sit cleanly with the two wraps locked against each other.

Tips for Tying It Well

  • Practice tying a clove hitch one-handed with both hands. Climbing often demands this skill.
  • Make sure the rope crosses itself INSIDE the carabiner. A clove hitch with the cross outside the carabiner is wrong and can slip.
  • After loading, dress the hitch by pulling both ends snug. Loose clove hitches can shift.
  • For belay stations on long pitches, back up the clove hitch with an overhand on a bight if you will be hanging there for extended periods.

Common Mistakes

  • Tying the second loop the wrong way. Both loops should go the same direction around the carabiner; mirrored loops give you a different (less secure) hitch.
  • Letting the cross of the rope sit OUTSIDE the carabiner instead of inside. Outside cross can slip.
  • Not dressing the hitch after loading. A loose clove hitch shifts under cyclic load.

Related Knots

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