+ How to Tie a Alpine Butterfly — Step-by-Step Climbing Knot Guide | BoulderingList
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Alpine Butterfly

intermediate

The alpine butterfly creates a strong fixed loop in the middle of a rope. Used for glacier travel, isolating damaged rope sections, and middle-of-rope clip-ins.

When to Use

Creating a fixed loop in the middle of a rope — used for isolating a damaged section, attaching a middle climber on a glacier rope team, or creating a clip-in point.

The alpine butterfly knot (also called the "lineman's loop" or just "butterfly") creates a fixed loop in the middle of a rope without using either end. It is one of the most useful knots in mountaineering, glacier travel, and rope rescue work. The loop is symmetrical, can be loaded in any direction, and is easy to untie even after heavy loading.

In climbing, the alpine butterfly has three main uses. First, on glacier rope teams: each climber clips into a butterfly knot tied at their position on the rope, with the rope running between climbers. If one climber falls into a crevasse, the butterfly distributes the load across the rope team. Second, for isolating a damaged section of rope: tie a butterfly around the damaged section to take it out of the load path. Third, for creating a middle-of-rope attachment point for hauling, second climber, or any application that needs a clip-in.

The alpine butterfly has a beautiful symmetry — pull it from either end of the rope or from the loop itself, and it holds equally well. This makes it uniquely suited to applications where the load direction is unpredictable.

How to Tie the Alpine Butterfly

  1. Step 1

    Take the rope where you want the loop and form a long loose loop in the rope.

  2. Step 2

    Twist the loop twice (one full revolution).

  3. Step 3

    Bring the top of the twisted loop down through the bottom opening, pulling the loop through to the other side.

  4. Step 4

    Pull both standing parts of the rope while holding the new loop. The knot will dress into the alpine butterfly shape — a symmetrical loop with two ropes coming off in opposite directions.

  5. Step 5

    The loop should be strong and clean. Both standing parts of the rope should pull straight away from the knot.

Tips for Tying It Well

  • The two-twist version is the standard alpine butterfly. A single twist gives you an overhand on a bight (different knot).
  • Practice the knot until you can tie it cleanly first time. Glacier travel often demands tying it with cold hands and gloves.
  • For glacier travel, tie butterflies at fixed intervals along the rope (typically 8-10 metres apart depending on team size).
  • The alpine butterfly is one of the few knots that loads cleanly in any direction. Useful when the load direction may change.

Common Mistakes

  • Single twist instead of double. A single twist gives an overhand on a bight, which is weaker and harder to untie.
  • Pulling the loop through the wrong opening. Practice with a static rope at home before relying on it in the mountains.

Related Knots

Overhand Knot

beginner

The overhand knot is the simplest knot — a single loop with the working end passed through. Used as a stopper, a backup, and the foundation for more complex knots.

Figure-8 Knot

beginner

The figure-8 is a simple stopper knot that creates a bulky knot in the rope. It is the foundation for the figure-8 follow-through, the standard climbing tie-in.

Take it further

Browse the full climbing knots library, or find a climbing gym to practice tying knots in real climbing situations.

All Climbing Knots Find a Gym Beginner's Guide

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