A hangboard (also called a fingerboard) is a wooden or polyurethane training board mounted above a doorway or training rig. It features a variety of holds — flat edges of different depths, pockets for one to four fingers, slopers, jugs, and pinches — designed to load the fingers and build maximum finger strength. Climbers hang from the board for measured time intervals, often with added or removed weight to scale difficulty.
Hangboarding is one of the most effective ways to improve climbing performance, but it carries injury risk if rushed. Hangboard training is generally not recommended for climbers in their first year — beginners build sufficient finger strength simply by climbing. Once a climber plateaus around V4–V5 or 6c–7a, structured hangboard work becomes the most efficient way to break through.
Common protocols include max hangs (5–10 second hangs at near-maximum load, full rest between), repeaters (cycles of 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off, 6 reps per set), and density hangs (longer hangs at lighter loads). Tendons and pulleys adapt slowly — sessions are typically twice a week with at least 48 hours rest, and visible gains appear after 4–6 weeks. Always warm up thoroughly before hanging.