BoulderingList
✦ Head to head

V-Scale vs Font Grading

V-scale vs Font — V-scale (V0, V1, V2…) is the American bouldering grade; Font (3, 4, 5, 6A, 7C+…) is the European/global standard from Fontainebleau. Same problems, different numbers — full conversion table inside.

Bouldering uses two main grading scales — V-scale and Font (sometimes written Fontainebleau or Fb). They both measure the difficulty of a boulder problem, but the numbers do not line up: V4 ≈ Font 6B, V8 ≈ Font 7B, V13 ≈ Font 8B. Most US gyms label problems with V-grades; most UK and European gyms use Font; most international and outdoor guidebooks use both.

This comparison covers what the two scales actually measure, where each is used, and the practical conversion. Once you know your level on one scale, the conversion to the other is mechanical — the rest is just learning to read the gym tape.

✦ Side by side

The differences

7 aspects
Option A

V-Scale

Origin
Created by John "Vermin" Sherman in Hueco Tanks, Texas in the 1990s.
Format
V0, V1, V2 … V17. Linear, no plus/minus splits.
Where used
United States, Canada, Australia (mostly), Latin America, parts of South-East Asia.
Lower entry point
V0 ≈ "first easy boulder" — roughly Font 4.
Beginner range
V0–V3 covers most beginner climbers.
Granularity at hard grades
V12, V13, V14 each represent a meaningful jump.
Outdoor vs indoor
Mostly indoor (and outdoor crags in V-using countries).
Option B

Font

Origin
Originated in Fontainebleau, France in the early 1900s — the oldest bouldering scale in use.
Format
3, 4, 5, 6A, 6A+, 6B, 6B+, 6C, 6C+, 7A … 9A. Letter-and-plus splits get finer at the top.
Where used
United Kingdom, France, Spain, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Scandinavia, much of the climbing-rich world.
Lower entry point
Font scale extends below V0 (Font 3, Font 4 are easier than V0).
Beginner range
Font 4 to Font 6A covers most beginner climbers.
Granularity at hard grades
Font 8A, 8A+, 8B, 8B+ — finer-grained at the top.
Outdoor vs indoor
Common indoors and outdoors. Almost universal on outdoor European problems.
When to use

V-Scale

You are climbing primarily in the US, Australia, or Canada. Or you have learned the sport on the V-scale and are comfortable with it. Or your local gym uses V-grades.

When to use

Font

You are climbing in Europe, the UK, or anywhere with a French or British climbing tradition. Or you intend to travel to outdoor European bouldering destinations (Fontainebleau, Albarracín, Magic Wood). Outdoor guidebooks from these areas are Font-only.

✦ Verdict

Which to pick

Use whichever scale your local gym uses — that is the one that will let you compare problems day-to-day. Learn the conversion well enough to translate when you travel. The two scales are equally legitimate; the difference is geographic, not mathematical. Approximate conversion: V4 ≈ 6B, V6 ≈ 7A, V8 ≈ 7B, V10 ≈ 7C+, V12 ≈ 8A+.

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