V-Scale vs Font Grading
V-scale vs Font — V-scale (V0, V1, V2…) is the American bouldering grade; Font (3, 4, 5, 6A, 7C+…) is the European/global standard from Fontainebleau. Same problems, different numbers — full conversion table inside.
Bouldering uses two main grading scales — V-scale and Font (sometimes written Fontainebleau or Fb). They both measure the difficulty of a boulder problem, but the numbers do not line up: V4 ≈ Font 6B, V8 ≈ Font 7B, V13 ≈ Font 8B. Most US gyms label problems with V-grades; most UK and European gyms use Font; most international and outdoor guidebooks use both.
This comparison covers what the two scales actually measure, where each is used, and the practical conversion. Once you know your level on one scale, the conversion to the other is mechanical — the rest is just learning to read the gym tape.
Side-by-Side
| Aspect | V-Scale | Font |
|---|---|---|
| Origin | Created by John "Vermin" Sherman in Hueco Tanks, Texas in the 1990s. | Originated in Fontainebleau, France in the early 1900s — the oldest bouldering scale in use. |
| Format | V0, V1, V2 … V17. Linear, no plus/minus splits. | 3, 4, 5, 6A, 6A+, 6B, 6B+, 6C, 6C+, 7A … 9A. Letter-and-plus splits get finer at the top. |
| Where used | United States, Canada, Australia (mostly), Latin America, parts of South-East Asia. | United Kingdom, France, Spain, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Scandinavia, much of the climbing-rich world. |
| Lower entry point | V0 ≈ "first easy boulder" — roughly Font 4. | Font scale extends below V0 (Font 3, Font 4 are easier than V0). |
| Beginner range | V0–V3 covers most beginner climbers. | Font 4 to Font 6A covers most beginner climbers. |
| Granularity at hard grades | V12, V13, V14 each represent a meaningful jump. | Font 8A, 8A+, 8B, 8B+ — finer-grained at the top. |
| Outdoor vs indoor | Mostly indoor (and outdoor crags in V-using countries). | Common indoors and outdoors. Almost universal on outdoor European problems. |
When to use V-Scale
You are climbing primarily in the US, Australia, or Canada. Or you have learned the sport on the V-scale and are comfortable with it. Or your local gym uses V-grades.
When to use Font
You are climbing in Europe, the UK, or anywhere with a French or British climbing tradition. Or you intend to travel to outdoor European bouldering destinations (Fontainebleau, Albarracín, Magic Wood). Outdoor guidebooks from these areas are Font-only.
Verdict
Use whichever scale your local gym uses — that is the one that will let you compare problems day-to-day. Learn the conversion well enough to translate when you travel. The two scales are equally legitimate; the difference is geographic, not mathematical. Approximate conversion: V4 ≈ 6B, V6 ≈ 7A, V8 ≈ 7B, V10 ≈ 7C+, V12 ≈ 8A+.
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